文化有根 創意是伴 Bridging Creativity
豆中雙鮮者,指的是嫩豌豆和嫩蠶豆。
嫩豌豆粒粒碧珠,鮮美可口,絕不是徒托空言。不過,它還需要有好搭配,雞蓉豌豆,做法和雞蓉黍米相同,要好雞湯,否則不夠鮮甜。雞丁炒豌豆,或雞絲燴豌豆,最好用雞油炒,豬油亦可,若用素油,就比較差勁。雞改為豬裏脊肉亦可,但丁要切得小,絲要切得細,否則在觀瞻上會帶累那顆顆的翡翠小珠珠“花容失色”。總之,這是個細致菜,若是素炒上大碗大碗的豌豆,倒不必用嫩豆,大顆粒的豆更實惠些。
普通的青豌豆,則是和毛豆一樣的十八配,炒什麽都可以加上幾粒,青豌豆和嫩玉蜀黍豆粒同炒,加火腿丁兒,等於翡翠、白玉炒珊瑚,色調極美,下酒下飯兩宜。
火腿蛋炒飯加上幾粒豌豆,是廣式辦法,西餐中什錦炒飯亦復如此。
老了的豌豆,煮透,濾去豆皮,炒成豆沙,和赤豆的豆沙配成“炒雙泥”,紫碧相映,是道好甜菜。只是,這只能贊以甘蔗老來甜,年華一過,已不成鮮。
嫩蠶豆比嫩豌豆還綠得可愛,吃法大致和豌豆相同。過去在北方,嫩蠶豆瓣兒加好雞湯燴鮮蘑菇片兒,是有名的素燴雙鮮。如今,洋菇充斥市場,素燴雙鮮已算不得什麽高貴的名菜了。嫩蠶豆燴肚條,加上幾片胡蘿蔔切的花片,是道好吃好看的家常宴客菜。當然肚條是用煮得透熟的豬肚切的,燴時另用高湯(煮豬肚的湯有臟腥味兒),如求湯濃,可加點兒奶粉和太白粉,奶湯是很合適於蠶豆的。
奶湯幹貝蠶豆,也是以嫩蠶豆燴發泡好的幹貝,此菜本身具白、黃、綠三色,加點火腿屑,格外悅目。
人老珠黃,蠶豆老了卻是由碧而白。大粒的蠶豆,吃法也很多。
雪菜蠶豆泥是寧波菜,蠶豆先剝成豆瓣,煨煮透爛,再炒以雪菜屑,白綠相映,十分下飯。
豆瓣酸菜湯,不必加葷腥,蠶豆本身即夠鮮。
五香蠶豆,是把蠶豆連皮炒煮,煮時加點花椒、八角之類的香料,是下酒佳品,江浙人家中餐桌上常見此肴。
街邊上賣的蘭花豆,即是老蠶豆炸成,這雖已距以鮮形容的嫩蠶豆甚遠,可是,若比起北方當零食吃的鐵蠶豆來,還可以使人聯想,因為口中嚼著其堅如鐵的嘎嘣豆兒,實在沒法子想到它的青春時代曾是那麽鮮嫩欲滴。
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