文化有根 創意是伴 Bridging Creativity
代表漢代飲食品種和烹調水平的菜單,目前可以找到三個:一個見於地下出土,兩個見於歷史文獻。
地下出土最有代表性的,是長沙馬王堆轪侯家族的食料,僅三號墓隨葬的食品就有38個竹笥〔sì寺〕,能辨認的動物性食料,就有鹿、豬、牛、羊、狗、兔、雞、雉、鴨、鵝、鶴、魚、蛋等13種;香料有花椒、肉桂、高良姜、香茅草等;水果有棗、橙、梨、柿、梅、橄欖、仁念、菱角等。這些食料,可以做出比《招魂》的菜單還要豐富的筵席。
文獻記載的兩個菜單,一個見於《鹽鐵論·散不足篇》,另一個見於枚乘的《七發》。
《散不足篇》列舉了西漢前期出現於食肆中的20款時尚之食,譯成白話,計有烤羊羔、烤乳豬、韭王炒蛋、片切醬狗肉、紅燒馬鞭、豉汁煎魚、白灼豬肝、臘羊肉、醬雞、酥油、酸馬奶、臘野豬腿、醬肚、燜羊羔、甜豆腐腦、清湯鮑脯、甘脆泡瓜、糯小米叉燒烘飯。
《散不足篇》還舉出漢代民間(指地主、商人社會)擺酒的例菜八種:燜燉甲魚、燴鯉魚片、紅燒小鹿肉、煎魚子醬、炸烹鵪鶉拌橙絲、枸醬、肉醬、酸醋拌河豚(俗名雞泡魚,河豚血和內臟有劇毒,肉則極鮮美)或烏魚(即黑魚,又稱生魚,肉脆嫩)。
枚乘在《七發》中列出的至味有九種:
肥美的小牛腩〔nǎn難〕肉,配以嫩脆的筍尖和蒲心;
紅燜肥狗肉,夾著爽脆的石耳;
雲夢澤的香粳米,拌著松散的菇米飯,又黏又爽口;
軟韌的熊掌,蘸著五香的鮮醬;
叉燒鹿裏脊,嫩滑又甘香;
新鮮的鯉魚片,燴溜黃熟的紫蘇;
打過霜的菜苔,炒起來嫩綠甘脆,真叫人陶醉;
用蘭香酒來蕩滌齒頰,使人食指大動;
清燉豹胎,使你回味無窮。
枚乘認為這九種飯菜,是“天下之至美也”。
漢代這三張菜單,基本上都屬於吳楚百越的美食,也夾雜著烤羊羔、燒馬鞭、臘羊肉、燉豹胎和馬奶油、酸馬奶等西北和華北、東北的美食,反映著南北飲食文化的交融。
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