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魚丸的制作,相傳始於先秦。秦始皇酷愛吃魚,每餐無魚便食之無味,但又生性殘暴,一旦魚刺、魚骨梗住咽喉,便下令將燒魚的廚師殺掉。後來一位姓任的禦廚奉命燒魚,自忖難免災禍,就用刀背狠狠地剁魚泄憤。誰知這一剁,奇跡般地使魚肉和魚骨自動分開。此時鼎中的豹胎湯開始沸騰,禦廚手忙腳亂地將魚肉搓成丸子,扔進鍋中。魚丸一個個漂浮於湯面,潔白如玉,秦始皇吃過贊不絕口,當場以“皇統天疆鳳珠汆”名之。從此汆魚丸就作為一道美饌流傳開來。
宋代的魚丸菜肴稱“荷花魚圓”,是用清湯銀耳烹制,湯水清淡,以幾片新鮮荷葉點綴其間,魚丸浮沈,頗具情調;元代的魚丸是以羊尾和魚泥制成,魚丸經油炸,小如彈子,稱為“魚彈兒”;清朝食譜講究用鰣魚為材料,取其鮮嫩,另外加雞脯、酒和萵苣葉汁,搓制成綠魚丸。袁枚的《隨園食單》認為,汆魚丸應以潔凈清淡為好,吃魚丸是為了品嘗它的鮮美,不應再過多添加物料,只要以幾片綠蔬點綴就可以了。
吃魚丸,最著名的是徐州彭城魚丸和福州七星魚丸。徐州悅來酒家以雞蛋清、肉湯和入魚泥制成的魚丸精致如銀彈。上菜時,將處理過的魚頭、魚尾在盤中擺出魚形,造型美觀,魚丸鮮嫩爽口,深得世人贊譽。曾纂修《大清一統志》的狀元李蟠,吃過悅來酒家的魚丸後寫詩贊道:“酒家悅來譽九州,古彭烹盛選鰲頭。鯉魚脫身化銀珠,多味龍骨腹中囿。大海漂浮王子衣,鸞刀紛綸糖醋溜。雖化肴羹瑤臺獻,千載毛遂遺風流。”康有為也曾書對聯稱贊:“彭城魚丸聞遐邇,聲譽久馳越南北。”徐州因為彭祖而被稱為彭城,康有為的贊譽使此菜遂以“彭城魚丸”聞名於世。
七星魚丸是福建著名的湯菜之一。它是用魚肉、瘦豬肉、蝦幹為主要原料制成的。相傳古時候有個商人隨漁船出海,中途遇風浪滯留,商人吃膩了魚,船婦便為他汆魚丸做食。商人覺得味道非常好,回到福州後便開了一家魚丸食店,號“七星食店”。一次,一位應試舉子路過進店就餐,吃過大為贊賞,當席賦詩一首:“點點星斗布空稀,玉露甘香遊客迷。南疆雖有千秋飲,難得七星沁詩脾。”從此,七星魚丸的美名傳播四方。福州的七星魚丸具有色澤潔白,富彈性而不油膩,鮮香而松軟,口味清甜爽滑等特點,久負盛名,深受海外僑胞鐘愛。
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