文化有根 創意是伴 Bridging Creativity
福州食品的味道,大抵重糖;有幾家真正福州館子裏燒出來的雞鴨四件,簡直是同蜜餞的罐頭一樣,不雜入一粒鹽花。因此福州人的牙齒,十人九壞。有一次去看三賽樂的閩劇,看見臺上演戲的人,個個都是滿口金黃;回頭更向左右的觀眾一看,婦女子的嘴裏也大半鑲著全副的金色牙齒。於是天黃黃,地黃黃,弄得我這一向就痛恨金牙齒的偏執狂者,幾乎想放聲大哭,以為福州人故意在和我搗亂。
將這些脫嫌糖重的食味除起,若論到酒,則福州的那一種土黃酒,也還勉強可以喝得。周亮工所記的玉帶春、梨花白、藍家酒、碧霞酒、蓮鬚白、河清、雙夾、西施紅、狀元紅等,我都不曾喝過,所以不敢品評。只有會城各處在賣的雞老(酪)酒,顏色卻和紹酒一樣的紅似琥珀,味道略苦,喝多了覺得頭痛。聽說這是以一生雞,懸之酒中,等雞肉雞骨都化了後,然後開壇飲用的酒,自然也是越陳越好。福州酒店外面,都寫酒庫兩字,發賣叫發扛,也是新奇得很的名稱。以紅糟釀的甜酒,味道有點像上海的甜白酒,不過顏色桃紅,當是西施紅等名目出處的由來。莆田的荔枝酒,顏色深紅帶黑,味甘甜如西班牙的寶德紅葡萄,雖則名貴,但我卻終不喜歡。福州一般宴客,喝的總還是紹興花雕,價錢極貴,斤量又不足,而酒味也淡似滬杭各地,我覺得建莊終究不及京莊。
福州的水果花木,終年不斷;橙柑、福橘、佛手、荔枝、龍眼、甘蔗、香蕉,以及茉莉、蘭花、橄欖等等,都是全國聞名的品物;好事者且各有譜牒之著,我在這裏,自然可以不說。
愛墾網 是文化創意人的窩;自2009年7月以來,一直在挺文化創意人和他們的創作、珍藏。As home to the cultural creative community, iconada.tv supports creators since July, 2009.
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