文化有根 創意是伴 Bridging Creativity
百年胸罩
導言:胸罩的起源撲朔迷離。1943年,好萊塢大亨、乳房愛好者霍華德·休斯在拍攝電影《亡命之徒》時,為了讓女主角簡·拉塞爾的胸看起來"像兩片雲彩",設計了托住胸部的短內衣,以此宣布胸罩由他發明。
後來女主角與大亨鬧翻了,矢口否認有這麼檔子事,而且霍華德·休斯的宣言有點後知後覺。
早在1859年,一個叫亨利的紐約布魯克林人,為他發明的"對稱圓球形遮胸"申請了專利,被認為是胸罩的雛形;1870年,波士頓有個裁縫還在報紙上登廣告,售賣針對大胸女性的"胸托"。
(Featured Photo:Disrupt by Milton Coto)
到了1907年,專門設計長袍的法國設計師保羅·波烈聲稱:"我以自由的名義宣布束腰的式微和胸罩的興起。"
雖然不知道他到底設計了什麼,但由此被認為是胸罩的發明人;同年美版《Vogue》出現了"胸罩"(brassiere)一詞,胸罩開始被大眾熟悉和接受。
鑒於保羅·波烈和美版《Vogue》在時尚界的地位,我們認為胸罩從1907年起正好100歲了。
胸罩比一切其他服裝都更能表達兩種相反的欲望——遮蓋身體的同時又強化和展示它,胸罩的性意味和儀式化的成分,構成了女性矛盾的歷史:既通過客觀對身體的束縛來順從壓制,又主觀上突出身體來打破禁忌。
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