再搖一搖,
聽聽看有沒有果實鬆落的聲音。
有的話代表這顆榴槤已經成熟、
正值可以剖開來吃的時候。

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Comment by iki kia kiak on May 7, 2021 at 12:06pm


管震民·
讀陳亞士《咏榴蓮》詩有感,叠成二韻以和


榴槤音韻叶留連,多少忘家滯海天。

銅臭鑽心雜我擾,金光耀目問誰憐?

薰蕕易地情仍異,橘柚踰江味亦遷。

獨慕東平甘守拙,灌園日日祝瓜緜。

咏物詩成擬惠連,果中佳品艷南天。

猙獰面目人都畏,柔軟心腸我亦憐。

下墜不虞和露重,髙懸時見逐風遷。

凝脂如乳還如蜜,更愛香濃肉似緜。


管震民《綠天廬詩文集》

Comment by iki kia kiak on March 28, 2021 at 4:55pm


Alfred Russel Wallace as a geographer

                                                                                       Map shows the Wallace Line.


THE old saying, ‘History is about chaps and geography is about maps’, is hardly true,

for when Wallace landed in Borneo in his quest to explore the natural history of the Malay Archipelago, there was hardly an accurate map of Borneo to be found anywhere in the world.

My first interest in Geography stemmed from my inheritance of my grandmother’s geography school textbooks that she used in the 1890s as a primary school teacher. These books, now 155 years old, saw Geography merely as a list of places with estimated populations and a lengthy but boring catalogue of the commodities that each country produced. Little was written about the landscapes, climate, vegetation and peoples of each country.


Wallace’s revelations

On June 8, 1863, Wallace presented his paper entitled ‘On the Physical Geography of the Malay Archipelago’ to a learned audience at the Royal Geographical Society in London. Remember that, by then, Wallace had already explored the Amazon Basin and later Sarawak and Indonesia, no doubt utilising the knowledge of landscapes from his earlier days as a land and estates surveyor. This was the year after he returned to England from his Malay Archipelago exploratory adventures and six years before his famous book was published.

In his opening speech, he set out to convince the assembled throng that, “No (other) part of the world can offer a greater number of our facts for our contemplation, or furnish us with more extensive and varied materials in almost every department of human knowledge” than the Malay Archipelago.

Today, 154 years later, this still rings true. Wallace maintained that this archipelago was truly continental in its extent and should be recognised as a ‘sixth continent’. To give an idea of the size of Borneo island to those who had never viewed it, he pointed out that it “would contain the whole of Great Britain and Ireland”.

Comment by iki kia kiak on March 28, 2021 at 4:55pm


Geological knowledge

He linked volcanic activity to earthquake frequency highlighting “a vast fiery girdle some 5,000 miles in length with 50 or so continually active volcanoes with hundreds more in a dormant

state”. He mentioned examples of crater lakes and the remains of the explosive volcanic vents in Java. “The great eruption of Toruboro, in Sumbawa, saw the loss of 12,000 lives and the ashes darkened the air, and fell thick upon the earth and sea for 300 miles around”.

Note that this was written 10 years before the great eruption of Krakatoa, east of Java, in 1873, which could be heard in northern Australia. It created a tsunami, and emitted so much volcanic gases into the upper atmosphere that the world’s climates were upset for several years. Wallace detailed volcanic activity on Java mentioning that this island “contains more volcanoes, active and extinct than any other known district of equal extent”.

His geological knowledge came to the fore as he distinguished between active, dormant and extinct volcanoes, and the reasons for the different shapes of volcanic cones. Wallace acknowledged the fact that there was no evidence of volcanic action for “the great mass of Borneo” but he had little or no knowledge of the earthquake activity, which rattled settlements even then in the Ranau and Kundasang areas of Mount Kinabalu.

He quoted evidence of land upheaval and depression with particular reference to “upraised coral-rock, exactly corresponding to that now forming in the adjacent seas”, especially on the island of Amboyna. His interest in mining is best illustrated in his indirect mention of the deposits at Labuan’s coalfield, which he determined as “of tertiary age” and was no doubt inherited from his early days in surveying the route of the planned railway line to transport coal from the mines in the Welsh valleys to Neath in South Wales.

Comment by iki kia kiak on March 28, 2021 at 4:53pm

Climatologist and biogeographer

Relating vegetation types to monsoonal rain patterns, Wallace focussed, in this lecture, mostly on tropical rainforest and kerangas areas. In particular, he mentioned “the larger half of Borneo as having a dry season from April to November, with the South East monsoon”. Indirectly he inferred the influence of the ‘Coriolis effect’ in deflecting winds to the right in the northern hemisphere by simply stating “the same wind (South East Trade) bends round Borneo, becoming the South West monsoon into the China Sea and bringing the rainy season to Northern Borneo”.

Wallace’s full explanation, based upon his natural history observations, revealed what is now called ‘The Wallace Line’, delineating those Indo- Malayan species of plants and animals from the Austra-Malayan varieties. This, he dramatically illustrated in a one paragraph summary,

“Nowhere does the ancient doctrine that the peculiar animal and vegetable productions of the various countries of the globe are directly dependent on the physical conditions of those countries

(such as climate, soil, elevation etc.,) meet with more direct and palpable contradiction. Borneo and New Guinea, as physically alike as two countries can be, are zoologically wide as the Poles are asunder; while Australia …. produces the quadrupeds and birds which are mostly allied to those … that are found in the tropical rainforests of New Guinea.”

He illustrated these differences by referring to the vegetation and animals of South America and Africa, which may have triggered Alfred Wegener’s theory, some 52 years later in 1911, of Continental Drift. He emphasised that it was “preceding geological change” that produced the patterns he had observed in the Malay Archipelago.

Early conservationist

Whilst a collector of various insect, animal and bird species, during his Malay Archipelago investigations, to despatch to British and European natural history museums, he concluded in his speech – perhaps in self-justification – an amazing foresighted final statement.

It reads thus, “Future ages will certainly look back upon us as people so immersed in the pursuit of wealth to be blind to higher considerations. They will consider us with having culpably allowed the destruction of some of those records of Creation which we had on our planet to preserve; and while professing to regard every living thing as the direct handiwork and best evidence

of a Creator, yet, with a strange inconsistency, seeing many of them perish irrecoverably from the face of the earth, uncared for and unknown.”

How true these wise words from the 19th century are in our 21st century.

Wallace cried out for preservation and conservation to maintain the biodiversity of our planet and his thoughts are replicated by conservationists today.

He was, indeed, a superb physical geographer explaining, in understandable terms, his vast knowledge of geology, geomorphology, climatology, meteorology, pedology and biogeography with appropriate turns of phrase. Alfred Wallace was, without doubt, a scientist well before his time when, later other scientists developed his ideas yet further.

Certainly, as a physical geographer, he has given me much thought as to how I view what has subsequently happened around our world. His down to earth style of writing, perhaps embellished by his Victorian vocabulary, still inspires further scientific and geographical investigations and enquiry today.

(JULY 9, 2017, SUNDAY https://www.theborneopost.com

Comment by iki kia kiak on May 9, 2016 at 11:28pm

陳寶兒·大馬榴槤出口商機

被喻為馬來西亞「果王」之稱的榴槤,如今也成功打開了中國市場。據農業及農基工業部長拿督斯里依斯邁沙比里早前公佈的資料顯示,今年1月至3月,大馬出口170萬美元(612萬令吉)的榴槤到中國。

大馬榴槤出口商公會秘書長黃奕順鼓勵我國榴槤園主,向大馬農業部申請良好農業規範(GAP)認證,成為合法的中國出口榴槤供應商。

他指出,中國商檢局規定大馬出口到他國的冷凍榴槤的數項條件當中,其中要求其果肉來源,果園必須具備大馬農業部的良好農業規範認證。

他解釋,若有園主向農業部作出該項認證的申請,有關當局會派遣官員前往作出多方面的檢驗,包括水果品質、種植環境等。若果園獲其認證批準,園主才能把榴槤賣給加工廠,並加以加工再出口。

需2個月完成檢驗

「中國對這項要求非常嚴格,它要檢驗大腸桿菌、種植過程、數量、土地或果肉,是否殘留重金屬成分,分分鐘需要2個月的時間,才能完成檢驗。」

他強調,成為榴槤出口供應商的2項步驟,分別就是有農業部批準的良好農業規範認證,以及尋找同樣為中國商檢局的9家榴槤加工廠。

黃奕順表示,我國農業部長為冷凍榴槤設置二維碼防偽標籤,大大提升中國客戶對我國榴槤品質保證的信心。

他提及,由於出口到中國的榴槤需求量日益增多,有許多未經過檢驗或加工的榴槤,就被非法地運送到中國。

為此,他指出,我國出口的冷凍榴槤現在就增設追蹤系統的二維碼防偽標籤,外國客戶可透過包裝上的標籤,到大馬農業部官方網站上瞭解,並發掘口中榴槤的「家底」。

「就是說,就算中國人不懂分別榴槤品種,但是大馬農業部就為它做了保證,這就是貓山王。」

防偽標籤品質保證

他說,首相對華特別大使黃家定在去年中國南寧東盟會的開幕禮上,為該冷凍榴槤的防偽標籤推介,不但增加中國人對大馬榴槤的信心,今年訂單確實如期增多。

黃奕順表示,我國農業部長為冷凍榴槤設置二維碼防偽標籤,大大提升中國客戶對我國榴槤品質保證的信心。

他提及,由於出口到中國的榴槤需求量日益增多,有許多未經過檢驗或加工的榴槤,就被非法地運送到中國。

詢及如何看待我國出口榴槤到中國的未來趨勢,他則笑著回應,若中國有10%的人都吃榴槤,那時就會發生大馬人自家沒有榴槤吃的情況。

他提及,除中國以外,有許多國家如美國、澳洲等都也正在作榴槤供應的需求。大馬現在就已出現供不應求的情況。為此,他鼓勵園主向農業部生產認證證明,甚至可以考慮接枝栽種貓山王榴槤品種,以滿足冷凍榴槤出工供應的需求。

冷凍榴槤保留最鮮美味道

黃奕順指出,大馬目前共有9家冷凍榴槤加工廠,分別為一家為液氮冷凍技術工廠,8家急速冷凍技術工廠。

「液氮冷凍技術是把液氮冷凍技術放入-90度的環境30分鐘,榴槤就能夠完全被冷凍。而急速冷凍技術則是在-45度的環境,但冷凍需要6小時。」

「相較急速冷凍技術,液氮冷凍技術更來得昂貴,但其效率確是相對地快3倍。口味是一樣的,是成本和效率的差異。」

他進一步說明,液氮冷凍技術僅需一天的時間,就可把冷凍榴槤裝滿一個半的貨櫃。反之,急速冷凍技術則需要3天才能填滿一個貨櫃。

黃奕順提及,榴槤從樹上跌下來、續後到冷凍、最後則是到包裝,整個過程不花超過6個小時的時間。

「加上榴槤氧化,味道也越來越淡。如此說來,冷凍榴槤更能吃出它最原本鮮美的味道。」

專家補充:今年銷售額料超過300萬

大馬榴槤出口商公會秘書長黃奕順表示,本月份將會有約50個貨櫃的冷凍榴槤被運往中國,預計今年的銷售額將超過300萬令吉。

他指出,中國人民在數年前,開始對大馬榴槤產生喜好,而我國農業部也在與中國政府進行了接近10年的洽談。直到2012年,中國才正式許可大馬出口冷凍榴槤到中國。

他說,冷凍榴槤在2012年的銷售量,就比今年首季的150萬令吉的銷售量來得多。但來到2013年,由於起初對於榴槤的管制不夠嚴謹,發生許多非法流入中國市場的情況。

嚴管非法榴槤流出

「當時走私入國的榴槤,一粒的價格要200令吉,或以每公斤100人民幣售賣。但我們合法包裝的冷凍榴槤則為250至300人民幣左右。」

他提及,值得慶幸的是,我國農業部在去年對於非法榴槤的流出加以管制,直到去年情況出現好轉,冷凍榴槤的銷售量也年年增加。

此外,他表示,榴槤加工品更是在中國受到大眾歡迎,其銷售額是冷凍榴槤的4倍左右。其中包括榴槤蛋卷、榴槤咖啡、榴槤泡芙、榴槤酥,以及榴槤餅等,榴槤起司蛋糕的價位更是高達1000人民幣。

開講嘉賓:黃奕順(大馬榴槤出口商公會秘書長)
電臺主持人:鄧佩銀、蘇進川

(收藏自 2015年07月11日 東方日報

Comment by iki kia kiak on April 22, 2016 at 8:42pm

王琡華·榴槤樹木簡介及賞樹情報

作者 台和園藝/王琡華

一到夏天,市場上就會出現一種大家都非常熟悉的熱帶水果-榴槤,許多對榴槤的味道如癡如醉的饕客們,每年都在期待這個時節的來臨,第一次初嚐榴槤的滋味是在十三年前的時候,小舅神秘兮兮的從冷凍庫中取出一包黃黃用塑膠袋包住的東西,說這東西是多麼的人間美味,記得只淺嚐了一口,那如瓦斯般的味道直衝我腦門,心裡想:這像大便的玩意你也吞的下去,還說好吃,你腦筋是不是有問題阿!後來年紀漸長才發現,其實榴連那味道,只能用那是屬於大人的滋味來形容,小朋友是不會懂的,那時覺得很恐怖的食物,現在也漸漸變的可以接受了。


榴槤的中文名稱是來自於馬來語Durian音譯而來,Duri為刺,an為語尾,意思指的就是「帶刺的東西」,其性屬燥熱,在泰國是產後婦女常食用的補品,早年其價格高昂,泰國人覺得此種水果可算是上等補品,常餽贈於人,但隨著栽植面積逐漸廣大,榴槤的價格已不復當年,高熱量及高含糖量的榴槤在現代人文明病氾濫下,也被醫師明確建議不可過量攝取。


原產於東南亞的榴槤,有南洋果樹之王之稱,其植株高大,性喜高溫,溫度低於22℃時會停滯生長,通常需栽培多年方能結果,花著生於老枝,果實從生長至成熟需3-4個月,成熟後的榴槤果肉金黃,風味撲鼻,由於榴槤的特殊味道是因為果實成熟時產生硫化物的關係,所以越熟過頭的果實味道越重,許多人無法接受這樣的味道,這道理就跟臭豆腐一樣,因此泰國政府明文規定不論是在飛機、飯店、公共汽車上等公共空間是禁止攜帶榴槤的,以保障不喜歡榴槤味道者不受味道襲鼻之苦。

榴槤樹木簡介小檔案

學名:Durio zibethinus
科名:木棉科
英名:Durian
別名:流連、留連、
用途:食用
原產:馬來西亞、婆羅洲
葉:長橢圓形,葉被密生褐色鱗片
花:花由樹幹生出,為總狀花序,花瓣級萼片各五枚,乳酪色。
果:球形或長橢圓形,表面具木質化之三角突起。 - See more at: http://blog.igarden.com.tw/2006/08/5M60833.html#sthash.RsInps6N.dpuf

Comment by iki kia kiak on April 22, 2016 at 8:31pm

王蜀桂·熱帶水果皇后「菠蘿蜜」的美味品嚐之道

印度是菠蘿蜜的原鄉,熱帶水果皇后在傳入臺灣三百多年的今天,
至今卻仍未在眾人眼前充分展現其風采;圓潤寬厚的外型包裹著一顆顆黃澄澄的果肉,
等待有緣人能夠淺嚐回味,一消高掛枝頭後墜跌一地的命運。

(photo credit: plants_of_russian_in_brazil via flickr cc



公元前 300 年,希臘哲學家泰奧弗拉斯托斯留下:「有一種樹很高大,結出又大又甜的果實,為沒穿衣服的印度先賢們提供食物。」他說的水果指的便是菠蘿蜜,也因希臘哲人的記錄,大家一致公認印度是菠蘿蜜的原鄉。

在隋唐時,菠蘿蜜隨著佛教傳入中國,當時名叫「頻那挲」(梵文的音譯),宋代以後則改為「菠蘿蜜」。

但菠蘿蜜究竟何時移入臺灣呢?據歷史資料顯示,1645 年荷蘭據臺時便引進,可是直到今天,大多數民眾卻仍不認識它,此事真是令人納悶甚久。

鄭和下西洋,隨行馬歡所著的《瀛涯勝覽》〈占城〉篇中介紹菠蘿蜜:「菠蘿蜜如冬瓜之樣,外皮似荔枝,皮內有雞子(此指如土雞蛋大小)大塊黃肉,味如甜蜜。中有子如腰子樣,炒吃味如栗子。」他的敘述如此詳實地描繪了菠蘿蜜。

自然生態作家劉克襄在《飲食》雜誌談到「菠蘿蜜」,他的見解是:「荷蘭人早年引進的菠蘿蜜,不是最美味的品種;或是無法克服環境的侷限,生出過於瘦小或營養不良的果實,因而難以有美味的肉質出現」。對於他的看法完全點頭同意,因為對菠蘿蜜的初體驗記憶中,就留下壞印象。

Comment by iki kia kiak on April 22, 2016 at 8:30pm


生態掃描,一窺菠蘿蜜


菠蘿蜜屬桑科,菠蘿蜜屬,因它的果實掛在樹上像鳳梨,又叫「樹鳳梨」;又因它的形狀像牛的蜂窩胃,所以又叫「牛肚子果」。

菠蘿蜜是常綠喬木,樹高可達 20 公尺。花期從 2 月至 8 月;果熟期為 5 月至 11 月。菠蘿蜜的花生長在樹幹或粗枝上,這種「莖花植物」,是熱帶雨林中樹木的特徵之一。菠蘿蜜的重量,平均多在 5~20 公斤之間,最重超過 50 公斤。

菠蘿蜜有 30 多個品種,果肉分為多漿果和乾漿果兩大類。多漿果的果皮堅硬,肉瓤肥厚多汁,味甜,香氣特殊而濃郁;乾漿果的果汁少,柔軟甜滑,鮮食味甘美,香氣中等,除供鮮食,還可製罐頭及果乾。

由於菠蘿蜜是世界上最重的水果,加上果實肥厚柔軟,香味濃郁,因此也被譽為「熱帶水果皇后」。

當樹上的菠蘿蜜外皮由綠轉黃時代表逐漸成熟可以採摘。
(photo credit: mararie via flickr cc

Comment by iki kia kiak on April 22, 2016 at 8:30pm

探究乏人問津的種種由來


熱帶水果之王榴槤,異味撲鼻,來臺才二十多年,卻擁有極高的支持度;熱帶水果皇后菠蘿蜜,來臺三百多年,竟然沒有多少人認識它,吃過它的人更少!

探其原因,菠蘿蜜雖在臺灣落地生根,但只有種在高雄、屏東、臺東的菠蘿蜜樹,才能結實纍纍。其他地方的人,沒見過菠蘿蜜的廬山真面目,怎麼有機會吃它的果肉呢!

其次,零星種植的菠蘿蜜樹,多半和長輩鄉愁有關。我最早見到的菠蘿蜜樹,在屏東縣里港鄉信國村,那是滇緬義胞村。想起在美濃看過菠蘿蜜乾,也是附近有滇緬義胞村的緣故,推測菠蘿蜜樹應是他們從家鄉帶來的樹苗,因此果實「生吃都不夠」,怎麼可能對外販售呢!

友人鄉下倉庫原有棵菠蘿蜜樹,卻從未吃過;高雄教育電臺庭院有棵菠蘿蜜樹,果子成熟時令大家煩惱,因為爛熟的果實掉在車上、地上都難處理;還有位朋友在大社老家種了兩排菠蘿蜜樹,也任菠蘿蜜自生自滅。

他們的理由是:菠蘿蜜有比強力膠還黏的白色汁液,如何切開菠蘿蜜果是一個大難題。

此外,菠蘿蜜的品種很多,有的菠蘿蜜果肉並不香甜,還帶股異味,我初次吃菠蘿蜜,就被它奇怪的氣味嚇到。後來在越南姐妹的家中,吃到香甜美味的菠蘿蜜,才讓我對它的印象徹底改觀。

將種子和果肉剝離後,黃色的果肉可以直接食用。
(photo credit: mimolag via flickr cc

Comment by iki kia kiak on April 22, 2016 at 8:28pm

菠蘿蜜成熟時,果肉摘取的秘訣


掛在樹上的菠蘿蜜,什麼時候可以採摘砍下?摘下的果實馬上可以吃嗎?對臺灣人來說,所有的疑問,答案都是一片空白。有個排灣族的友人,家中有棵菠蘿蜜樹,儘管每年樹上掛滿果實,竟從未吃過,原來是不知何時成熟,也不知如何吃。

其實菠蘿蜜的外皮,由淡綠色轉為土黃色,再摸摸它的外皮有點軟,就可以摘下。不過菠蘿蜜並非現摘現吃,而是要等待個幾天。

剖開的菠蘿蜜可以看見內部由許多小果聚集而成。
(photo credit: plants_of_russian_in_brazil via flickr cc


菠蘿蜜是東南亞人最熟悉的水果,他們都有祖傳撇步用以摘取果肉。最普遍的做法是將刀子抹油(沙拉油、椰子油都可以),剖開菠蘿蜜一分為二後,可看見排列整齊的黃金色果肉,宛如一粒粒含苞待放的花朵,靠著白色的瓤絲連結成一體,這也看出它是由許多小果聚集而成,一個個黃色果肉,中間包著種子。

果肉與種子分離的工作不困難,但很耗費時間。這時徒手比較方便,沾在手上的黏液,用沙拉油搓揉後,很容易洗乾淨。

菠蘿蜜種子水煮過後美味程度不輸栗子或菱角,也可做為料理食材。
(photo credit: logrcubed via flickr cc

澄黃香甜的熱帶滋味,入菜也迷人


菠蘿蜜的黃色果肉,長得像小口袋,口感像稍韌的荔枝,鮮食爽滑、香甜如蜜;香味綜合了多種熱帶水果(例如鳳梨、香蕉、木瓜等)的香氣。果肉可以直接食用,也可以製成冰品或沙拉,印尼人的做法則會將果肉沾薄麵糊炸來吃。

但營養價值極高的菠蘿蜜,切記不要和蜂蜜同食,會引起脹氣,嚴重時還會有生命危險。體質敏感的人,最好在食用前,以鹽水浸泡菠蘿蜜果肉,就能快樂享受菠蘿蜜的美味。

菠蘿蜜通常都是大塊頭,對於小家庭來說份量過分充足;幸好它的果肉即使放在冷凍庫,再次解凍後並不會出汁變味,和新鮮現剝時一樣好吃,而種子無論生鮮或煮熟,都可放在冷凍庫保存。

如果時間充裕,還可以自己 DIY 菠蘿蜜乾,將菠蘿蜜果肉放到烤箱內烘乾至水分完全蒸散;菠蘿蜜乾吃起來酥脆爽口、清香甘甜,比任何果乾都好吃。目前在南洋雜貨店或是越南、泰國、印尼小吃店,很容易找到菠蘿蜜乾,價錢更是平易近人。

菠蘿蜜的種子直接水煮,味道比菱角好吃多了,甚至可和栗子一比高下,所以有人煮排骨湯、雞湯時會加入菠蘿蜜種子。其實並不是所有菠蘿蜜種子都好吃,往往菠蘿蜜個頭太小,或果肉非常香甜,就不要奢想有美味的種子;好吃的種子,果肉多半不太出色。

記得我在印尼姐妹做的咖哩中,發現一種從沒見過的植物,樣子像某種瓜瓤,但實在猜不出是什麼瓜來?問了她們,答案竟是菠蘿蜜果肉的瓤絲。後來到印尼小吃店吃飯,也能看到它的蹤跡。我以為她們是以成熟的菠蘿蜜瓤絲入菜,印尼妹妹卻說:「不成熟或有蟲蛀的菠蘿蜜,我們會把它整個切塊,加入咖哩中燉煮!」

而農委會為了推廣菠蘿蜜的美味,編製了食譜提供民眾各式料理做法,果肉做蜜餞、果汁、奶昔、果凍、甜湯、沙拉等;瓤絲則用來炒、炸,都是用成熟的菠蘿蜜為食材。想必來自東南亞的姐妹看到臺灣人把當成水果吃的成熟菠蘿蜜,居然用來入菜,一定覺得很不可思議吧!

(本文取自 2015 年 08 月號鄉間小路) 

愛墾網 是文化創意人的窩;自2009年7月以來,一直在挺文化創意人和他們的創作、珍藏。As home to the cultural creative community, iconada.tv supports creators since July, 2009.

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